Most pointless post ever! I officially SUCK!
Go ahead with this.
Buy metal pipe w/ 2 end caps for it.
Drill a hole in one cap, put the other on the bottom of the pipe. Fill the pipe with black powder.
Put the drill cap on and add a fuse. Light and throw at your school.
My Jewish killjoy relatives came over today proving (Yet Again) my age-old point: Hanukkah sucks. I said it. Sue me. You light 8 small candles for Hanukkah, Christians get electricity and assloads of light bulbs; mainly so they can see the Jews NOT having fun. Have fun with that top, I’ll be playing my Xbox.
I’ve finally got the balls necessary to ask the girl of my dreams out; now all I need to do is overcome the massive gap in social status. No worries, I have a plan:
1. Watch every James Bond movie ever made.
2. Have my gay brother design my outfit. (I will, however, supervise)
3. Become the God Of Hygiene.
I think I have a problem. This list fetish cannot be healthy. Oh well, something has to kill me (I just wish it was something more manly than lists). You guys might want to know this: National Treasure: BoS pales in comparison to the original. But then again, all sequels suck to some degree. Want moar brain food? NEVER USE WD-40 ON YOUR BIKE CHAIN. I learned that the hard way hiking a few days ago.
My PVC snowball launcher was a VERY bad idea (PVC+Cold=Shrapnel), so heres a cop-out:
Ever wanted to have a nice frosty beverage but it may be “looked down upon”? Here’s an easy way to make a covert beer can. DISCLAIMER: Do not drink alcoholic beverages anywhere it is illegal! Drink responsibly. All you need is a can opener, a pair of strong scissors and and file.
First pop the top from your empty soda can and then using the can opener, cut off the entire top of the soda can. Don’t cut yourself! Using the can opener again, cut off the bottom of the can. Don’t cut yourself again. Now using your scissors (or tin snips) make a cut into the bottom of the can and then cut along the edge to remove the entire bottom of the can. Did I say don’t cut yourself? Look for the seam on the can and then cut the can in half from the bottom to the top. If you cut yourself, DIE. NOW.
Coil up the covert can cover nice and tight and slip it over the beer or other beverage and you’re done! Have fun, be safe.
Wow….I’ve been busy. I’m also breaking several internet rules by BWT (Blogging While Trippin’). Kids: (I seriously hope none are reading this) NEVER drink cough syrup then chugg Red Bull. But since all the kids who have found this post are probably little twats, its probably too late. And if your an adult: close the browser and do the following:
1. Buy Bleach
2: Drink it
3. ???????
4. PROFITS!
They should all be dead by now. Lets see…..I won a rock climbing tournament, impressed the girl of my dreams, and offended all my friend at party by making comments on the size of my balls. Weird weekend. Heres some more fun crap:
Nitrogen Triiodide
Contact explosive, great for pranks, VERY SENSITIVE.
Iodine crystals.
Can be bought on e-bay, unitednuclear.com, or http://shop.armorforensics.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RedWop&Product_Code=1-2805&Category_Code=
That last one is a forensics website. Iodine crystals are used in a fingerprint lifting process called iodine fuming. As you can see on the label on the jar, the gas from the crystals has stained the paper to a dark purple color. Iodine gas is toxic, so do this experiment in a well ventilated area.
Ammonia
The purer the better. I use clear ammonia available almost anywhere. The store bought stuff is actually Ammonium hydroxide, meaning that it is ammonia dissolved in a ton of water. If for some reason you have access to highly concentrated ammonia the resulting nitrogen triiodide will be much more powerful, and therefore handled much more carefully.
A tupperware container
Coffee filters
Fill the container up with enough ammonia to completely submerge any crystals you put in. Spoon in the crystals, I highly recommend using a very small amount of crystals the first time (pencil eraser sized) so if you accidentally set it off you have less of a chance of injury.
Let the crystals sit for a few hours, I normally just leave them overnight and use them the next day. Overnight the nitrogen atoms from the ammonia will get it on with the iodine atoms and NI3 will result. I know what your thinking, nitrogen is a dirty for taking 3 iodine’s at once, but who are you to judge, we’ve all done things were not proud of to make ends meet.
You, now have the extremely unstable compound NI3. It is relitavely safe to handle while it is still wet, but that is no guarantee of anything, it has been known to go off while still damp. So from this point on be very cautious around it.
Pour the ammonia container and iodine crystals through the coffee filter, and then quickly while it is still damp move the filtered crystals to where you want to set them off. Once the crystals are settled in their final resting place, wait for them to dry, which can vary from 30 min to a few hours. Use a long stick to set them off.
I really haven’t done……Anything. At all. It been a very glacial week for me, staring at the clock hands ticking. I seriously need to get out there. I desperately need to chainsaw something, NOW!!!!! I can’t think, or work, or even terrifiy my neighbors. This is probably going to be my shortest, most boring post ever.
A ropedart is swung and thrown, using the principles of mechanical advantage, to attain tremendous velocity and kinetic energy. It is a steel dart 13-23 cm long weighing somewhere around 0.3kg attatched to a length of cord about twice as long as the user is tall. This is how to make one from a rail road spike (which can be found along any rail road track).
Take a trip to some RR tracks and go for a walk. Pick up spikes which are laying loose on the ground. This may be illegal, so be warned. I take no responsibility for your actions. Try to select the straightest, least corroded, spikes. They can also be bought from the internet.
Don’t worry about rust, it will come off…
Take a hacksaw / sawzall / laser / oxy-acetylene torch / or -my personal favorite - angle grinder w/ cutting disc out. Cut off the head of the spike to the first point at which the thickness is uniform.
Drill a hole at the back of the dart (where you just cut off the top of the spike). Use a drill bit large enough to accomodate paracord, climbing accessory line, or a heavy-duty metal split ring. We are drilling this hole first because in case it is off, we can re-center as we shape the dart.
If you are annoyed by my lack of numbers and measurements, think of this: I don’t know optimum numbers. I taught this to myself, so my way is not the ‘right way’; your guess is as good as mine. If you are desperate for a measurement, just comment, and I’ll let you know.
Now the fun part!
Using a grinder or file, begin to shape the dart. The front should taper to a (sharp) point. It can have any number of sides greater than three (as you approach infinity, the shape becomes conical). Mine has four. Experiment and see what you like.
You can taper the dart along its length one way or another if you like, and add in any sort of design which pleases you.
At the back of the dart, I put in angled cuts to prevent the dart from catching on the cord as it pivots
This is quite important. With a dremel or chainsaw file, smooth off the inside and edges of the hole drilled in step 4. If you use a cord to attatch the spike to the rope (as I did) this is necessary to minimize chaffing. You do not want 1/2 lb. of pointy steel flying off at over 100 mph because a burr sliced the cord.
Get a rope about 3/8″ in diameter and ten to twenty feet long. The thicker the rope, the slower your dart will be; the thinner it is, the more it will cut into your hand.
WARNING: DO NOT USE NYLON OR OTHER “DYNAMIC” ROPES. THEY HAVE ELASTIC PROPERTIES WHICH COULD CAUSE THE DART TO RETURN TO YOU UNPREDICTABLY WITH GREAT FORCE. CAUSING YOU TO HAVE SERIOUS LACK OF FACE.
Get a short piece of narrow, strong cord (like climbing accessory cord) which will fit through the hole you drilled. Alternatively, you could use a metal ring, several, or some sort of chain. (I’ll be using a type of chain for my next.)
How tall are you? Multiply by two. This is how long your rope and dart should be once all of the knots are done. This is a very general guideline, which should be altered according to your preferences through experimentation. My rope is currently 12 feet long.
Tie a prusik knot or taut-line hitch at the end of the rope to form a loop. This loop can now be slid to adjust to the size of your wrist.
I take no responsibility for anything/anybody destroyed with this by accident or otherwise.
This is a VERY BASIC outline of what to do:
Slide wrist loop over your non-dominant wrist (right wrist if left handed), then wrap rope once or twice across that hand. Hold rope with other hand (leaving several feet between hands) and start twirling the dart around. Release. Repeat. There are many advanced techniques (such as rebounding the spike with your foot) which you’ll learn as you go.
If you don’t want to kill anyone, replace the dart with a ball of kevlar, soak in gasoline, light on fire, go to a beach, and impress crowds.
HAVE FUN!
Ignoring the many jokes that could be made about this title, I’m as serious as testicular cancer now. One my friends was mugged and shot (Nonfatal, thank god) and I’m thinking carrying a gun. I don’t like guns; I know more about them then I really ever wanted to know. (Dad is retired LAPD; he has so many handguns I could probably be a walking arsenal) . Explosions and fire can be used for constructive purposes, while the purpose of guns is just to harm. Don’t get me wrong- if someone’s coming after you with murderous intent, blow his fucking head off. That’s kind of why I’m going to start carrying a 9mm. (Chill, I’ve got a license.)
I don’t advise toting a pistol after doing this however:
You’ll need a syringe and a few bottles of pre-mixed ethanol-based beverages (booze). I used 007’s favorite… Martinis! (Shaken, not stirred of course!). This is great for parties, etc., and is guaranteed to be a big hit.
Inject your drink of choice into a few choice places around the melon (Sodium Pentathol is NOT recommended!!!).
Now pop that baby in the refrigerator for AT LEAST 1 hour. This gives the anesthesia a chance to take effect so the melon doesn’t feel a thing…
Remove from the fridge and get out your scalpel (I use the old secret knife blade in the boot technique =) and slice into sections, then cut off the rind. DON’T eat watermelon and drive!!!
“Sir, are you drunk?”
“No officer, I’m eating watermelon”
Classic me. I just impressed a girl far, far, FAR out of my gene pool ( I’m a pretty big Beta Male and she has triple g-cup death boobs) and screwed up on the one girl who may have actually like me for me. Love is a many headed demon.
In not-personal news, I have perhaps gotten the biggest paintball game in history started. I’ve told all 120+ of my friends, enemies, and underlings about the games and I’m getting RSVP’s by the bucket. I pretty sure I’m going to to run out to paint.
Not that I’m in any shape to squeeze a trigger at the moment. Due to a deadline-induced Red Bull binge, I tried rock climbing route waaaay too difficult for me and ended up ripping up my hands. Ow. I am not looking forward to trying that again tonight.
I know, I know.
“LESS PERSONAL CRAP, MOAR BLOWING THING UP!”
How to build a flaming whip. It’s a very simple and rewarding project, but the final project can be dangerous. You will be dealing with a flaming metal chain which gets extremely hot. You would not want to get any part of this accidentally wrapped around your body. Apart from all the danger though its really fun and produces a loud whooosh of fire every time you swing it.
Really simple parts, all the materials together should cost under 30$
Parts:
1. Hollow steel tube 18″ sturdy enough to be used as a handle
2. 10′ double link metal chain like in the picture, thin enough so the links can fit inside the steel tube.
3. 21′ of thin kevlar rope (can be bought on e-bay, the size of the rope is determined by the size of the chain links, because you will need to braid the rope through the links) YOU DO NOT WANT TO USE COTTON, IT’LL FALL APART
4. 2″ long bolt with washer and nut around 3/8″ thick
5. Kerosene (Yay!)
6. Saw, drill with bits, wrench
Building the whip
1. Using a drill bit matching the diameter of the bolt, drill a hole through the top of the hollow steel pipe.
2. Insert the chain into the pipe so the first link is lined up with the hole.
3. Push the bolt through the hole, and tighten the washer and nut onto the other side.
4. Starting from at least a foot up from the handle, braid the kevlar rope through all the links. I folded the rope in half and then taped off the halfway point to the chains and then used the two rope halves to braid through each link, although anyway that gets the chain braided will work.
5. Tie off the ends of the rope to the end of the chain.
6. Roll the handle in your hands so the chain wraps around it.
Before you start have a bucket of water and an old towel soaked with water near by. With the chain wrapped around the handle, dunk it in a bucket or container of kerosene so it is completely submerged. If you do not fully submerge it parts will be left dry and may burn. After it has been saturated, shake it off until no more droplets fall from the chain.
To light: Hold the handle away from your body or anything that will burn, and using a bbq lighter, light it up.
Once it is ignited quickly unravel it so you do not get burned.
To use: Just wack it around a bit 
make sure you dont go near anything flammable or anything that you wouldent want to be burned. After a while you should get the hang of it, but always be careful because sometimes it will do something unexpected like snap back towards you.
To extinguish: Place the flaming part of the whip in a small pile on the ground, and quickly put the wet towel over it. If you are done using it, wrap the entire chain around the handle again and dunk it in the bucket of water to cool off the chain links.
To refuel: Remove the wet towel. Make sure there are no smoldering parts left, wrap the chain around the handle by spinning the handle in your hands, and dunk it back in the kerosene. Warning: If there is any part left on fire or smoldering you will be at risk of setting the bucket of kerosene on fire.
I forgot to tell you guys yesterday: the paint grenade didn’t work well. It wasn’t that they didn’t spray paint every where, it just that it was so damn unreliable. The second you’d light it (Yes, light it. I love those old school firecracker-like paintball greandes.) you would have 3 scenarios:
1. Throw, and cackle. Teach your foes the meaining of fear.
2. Blow up in your hand, causing small burns to the un-gloved and definately getting you out of the game.
3. Throw it, only this time it doesn’t go off, and your foes teach you the meaning of headshot.
Blech. I like risk as much as the next guy, but scenario 2# was happening way too much for my liking. I’m going to try the tradtional spinning around grenades this Saturday, assuming I can avoid death by Christmas. (Relatives are only people who don’t know how to live and haven’t the slightest clue on when to die). My vacation starts on the 21st and I can’t wait. Speaking of Christmas, what to you get a girl you badly want to ask out? Something that says, “He’s totally into you and you have no fucking clue”. Or something.
Most sports-fans are familiar with the extremely loud air-horns powered by a can of compressed air. This tells you how to make your own air-horn from common house-hold scraps. With a little practice, each air-horn takes under five minutes to make, so an evening’s work can produce enough air-horns for even the largest family to enjoy around the Christmas table, or to dole out as party-favours so that the dear little ones can take some of the party fun home to the parents who didn’t help arrange the party…
A sharp knife or scissors with a pointed blade.
A 35mm film cannister or similar plastic pot.
A balloon.
A straw.
(You’ll probably have to buy the balloons and straws, but you can scrounge film cannisters from your local photo-developing store. I get 20 or 30 a time from our local “Boots”.)
The air-horn needs two holes, one for air to enter, one for it to leave. The exit hole, in the centre of the cannister’s base, is most critical, since it needs to form an air-tight fit around the straw.
If you pause and check the fit every few turns, you should reach a point where the straw can be pushed snugly in without being crushed or distorted. Drill a second hole in the side of the cannister, roughly the size of the hole in the base. Scrape the edges smooth, as this is where your mouth will be going.
Air-horns have a vibrating diaphragm to generate the sound. In this version, the diaphragm is a balloon. Take an ordinary toy balloon and look at it. You should see that it has a crease around it. Since the diaphragm works best when it is flat, cut the balloon in half along the crease.
The air-horn works perfectly with a whole lid, but you may find it easier to adjust your first air-horn if you can see the diaphragm.
To this end, cut a big hole in the middle of the lid.
That’s it. End of step.
Lay the balloon over the top of the cannister and put the lid on so that it is pulled fairly tight. If you have a hole in the lid, you will be able to check that the balloon is smooth and tight.
Slide your straw into the bottom of the cannister until it presses against the diaphragm. Again, if you have a hole in the lid, you will be able to see where the end of the straw ends up. That’s it. The air-horn is made.Go on, try it. Pucker up to the hole in the side and give it a blow
Is there even such a thing as a “good” monday? Even those Mondays I get off work leave a bitter taste in my mouth. My coworkers try even harder to irritate me on Mondays. I swear to every fucking god up there, everytime Sydney (female annoyance that wants to be in my pants) talks, I die a little bit inside…..
My pile of work is glaring at me. I know this sounds like a PCP fueled hallucination, but its not. My work wants to kill me; hopefully I’ll pull a JK Rowling with one of my books and WHAM! Bye Bye workload. Boy, this post is spiraling down into the pits of emo fast. Pretty soo we’ll be listen to Fall Ouy Boy (I seriously doubt the “boy” part) and cutting our wrists. Yech.
Possible Holiday Bomb
The supply list for this prank is short and they are easy to find:
1. 35mm canister
They will give you these for free at Walgreens or most one hour film development labs.
The white ones with the tighter lids work better than the black ones.
2. Can of compressed air
Your common air duster - found at most offices. Used for blowing the dust out of computers and keybaords.
3. Some confetti
I bought some for a dollar to make it somewhat more Christmas, but those holes from the hole punch work great!
This part is simple - just turn the can of air upside down, and then spray a little of the liquid inside.
WARNING The liquid inside is extremely cold and extremely flammable. Caution is advised, especially when dealing with something that can both cause frostbite and severe burns.
Once the liquid is inside, quickly dump as much confetti inside as you can, without getting any in the way of the lid. (If the lid cannot close tightly, the pressure will not be able to build.) Finally, close the lid tightly, set it next to your intended victim and then quickly walk away!
Now comes the kaboom.
It will take anywhere from 5 seconds to a good minute to explode, depending on several factors.
If you spray a lot of liquid inside, it will take longer to evaporate and build up pressure.
If the ambient air temperature is high, the liquid inside will likely evaporate much faster.
For a bigger boom, turn the canister upside down and use more liquid. Stand clear of it if you do. The resulting explosion is pretty violent, especially for a little canister.
It’s here! It’s here!
After what has perhaps been the longest 30 minutes in history, the weekend has officially started. Needless to say, I’m heading straight for the paintball field to test out my new paint grenades. If they work alright, then I’ll post it. If not….well, then I’m in for a painful trip to the dead hut. In other ramblings, posting “It’s Christmas, Bitches” on a Internet that is 97% porn may have been not been a good idea. At least 10 people visited my site after searching for some variant of “Hot Christmas Bitches”. Classy.
Thats life I suppose, if your going to be on the Internets, you better be ready to beat down horny teens. Also I got serveral hits involving political assasinations. I’m an anarchist, so I’m just gonna step off this one. I mean, if your still a republican or democrat after the mess that is the past 15 years, then you are seriously delusional. I envy you. I would not want to be a presidential canidate right now however. I also recently got to see a friend of mine play the Grinch on Broadway. Watching him haul his hyperactive ass on stage made the show really shine, he did really well. I think that the Grinch has stopped being that old curmudgeon who lives across the street to a much more funny character.
Anyway, lets wind down with something easy for the fundless of you (People like me).
This is a very simple project that will cause a lighter to either explode or shoot somewhere. All that is required for this project is a cheap plastic 50 cents lighter with an adjustable gas height switch.
Remove the metal cover for the lighter. Underneath it should be the flame adjust switch, it is a plastic ring around a plastic piece screwed into the top of the lighter. Unscrew the plastic valve until you hear gas leaking out of it, without having to hold down the button. Make sure the gas leaking out is just a trickle, otherwise the lighter will lose too much gas for anything to happen. Spark the lighter once, it should ignite the gas leaking from the valve, and instantly drop the lighter on the ground OUTSIDE. After maybe half a minute, the flame from the leaking gas will melt through the plastic on the side of the lighter. The gas from the chamber will then escape out over the flame, ignite, and either cause the lighter to explode or propel it along the ground a few feet.
Don’t blow your hand off.
Thanks to the razor sharp composing and copying skills of me and a few of my friends, White History Week has now begun. Proceed to be white with pride! (I’m not predjudiced, and am in no way bashing Asians, Blacks, Latinos, Arabs, etc). Anyone who trashes you for being white, just bring this up. If they proceed to irritate, use this:
TAZORIZER GLOVE OF DOOOOM
And you thought I only did dangerous things with fire, well you were wrong, I do dangerous things with electricity too.
From simple everyday parts you can make this glove which has two modes. Mode 1 is a constant output of slightly over 300 v. while Mode 2 takes a few seconds to charge, but gives off a much more painful shock. All that voltage from a simple AA battery, Yay science.
In addition to the parts listed below, some basic tools are required, such as a soldering iron, drill, screwdrivers, etc. All the basic things that a well equipped tinkerer should have.
Parts:
1. Chemical resistant rubber glove. I bought mine at home depot, it dosent really need to be chemically resistant, just insulated enough to protect you from electricity.
2. Disposable camera
3. Aluminum foil
4. 2 Toggle Switches with On/Off Label Plate (Model:275-602) from the shack
5. Pushbutton switch from the shack
6. AA battery holder
7. Devcon weldit all purpose glue
8. Project box (As close to 3×2x1.5 as you can get)
Expect to spend around 20$ for this fun and rewarding project.
This step varies with the different cameras so I can only give a general instruction for this part.
Steps:
1. Remove label, box, sticker, or whatever package the camera is wrapped in, so it is just bare plastic.
2. Find how the camera is held together most often it is small plastic latches around the camera, which can be bent open with a screwdriver.
3. Open the camera, and be very careful not to touch any of the circuitry.
4. Carefully remove the AA battery.
5. Discharge any current still in the capacitor by bridging the two leads with a metal screwdriver.
6. The circuitry is now safe to handle, so remove it from the camera casing.
There are a few things on the circuitry that you need to identify before you do this step. The first is the capacitor which is the cylindrical thing, you should have discharged in the previous step. Other points of interest are the indicator LED light and the switch that is used to charge the capacitor.
Steps:
1. Unsolder the indicator LED, solder 2-3 inch wires to each of the LED’s leads, and solder those wires back into the circuit. Simply put your just making a little extension cord for the LED.
2. Unsolder the capacitor attach short wires to each of its leads and put it aside for later.
3. Using a small piece of wire, bridge the switch that is used to charge the capacitor, so it will always be on.
4. I have finally replaced step 4 with a schematic
5. Solder in 2 10in. wires connecting them to the 2 wires you just soldered into the board. These wires will go to the fingers of the glove.
You will now place all the circuitry and wiring into the project box.
Steps:
1. Drill 4 holes on the top of the project box. 3 for the switches and 1 for the LED.
2. Glue the AA battery holder to the side of the project box, and drill 2 holes into the box for the wires from it.
3. Drill 2 holes on the side of the box for the wires going to the fingers.
4. Insert the different switches into each hole and securing them, make sure that the two switches for the capacitor are next to each other. (In the photo it is the two on the right)
5. Solder one of the wires from the battery holder to the remaining unused switch, then take a short length of wire and solder it from the other lead on the swtich to the correct polarity of where the battery was connected on the circuit board. Take the other wire from the external battery holder and solder it to the opposite polarity. It is a good idea to unsolder the metal clips from the circuit board that were used to hold the battery, and then solder the wires into the holes they were in.
6. Glue the LED into its hole, above the main power switch.
7. Feed the two 10 in wires through the holes on the side.
8. Put the circuit board inside the project box, and close it up. It will probably be a very tight fit, you may even need to trip down the sides of the board.
9. Check to make sure no wires are bridging, if they are wrap some electrical tape around them.
10. Close up the box.
Steps:
1. Strip the last inch and a half off the two 10 in wires and connect them to a multimeter to see if it is giving off any voltage. In the photo mine is only giving off 254v because my battery is dieing.
2. Attatch it to the top of the wrist of the glove with a few rubber bands.
3. Cut the 2 wires so that when you put the glove on they will run an inch longer then your middle finger, and an inch longer then your thumb.
4. Wrap aluminum foil around the middle finger and thumb with the wires underneath each. Secure the foil and wires with some electric tape.
5. Congradulations you are done, pat yourself on the back, just not with the gloved hand.
Operation: To get the constant voltage, just turn on the main power switch, the indicator LED should illuminate and a steady supply of voltage will be supplied to the fingers. To charge it flip the other switch and push the button, you should hear the same high pitched charging noise that a disposable camera would make when it is charging. In a few seconds the capacitor should be fully charged and the fingertips will pack quite a punch.
A few of you guys may have noticed that my instructions are getting pretty complex. Don’t worry about it to much, I just report things as I find them.
 | Nate on Nothing! |
 | Shockor on Packing Heat? |
